Toto, we're still in Kansas
I realize I'm supposed to be doing ethnography of Kansas, so why am I drawn to the foreigners working in the hotels and restaurants?
This morning, 10:30, in Coffeyville (note the spelling: there is no real coffee in this town), Kansas, I went to the all-you-can-eat 3.99 buffet at the Great Wall Chinese restaurant. The manager chose the name Steve when he came here from Fujian province. He drew me a picture of a boat going up a river through the mountains of his homeland. Coffeyville is like any other town in this country, one main strip with signs leaning in on you from every angle. The landmarks are signs. ("Where's the public library?" "Behind the Long John Silver's.") I asked Steve if he missed Fujian, but he didn't get the word "missed" and I couldn't define it in simple terms.
In the Wu Yi mountains of Fujian there is a tea that sells at auction for over $2,000 a pound. There are only six trees that grow the leaves. Each tree is insured for $20 million. The trees are 500 years old. Only kings used to enjoy the tea, Steve said.
Yesterday in Lawrence, I stopped at the public library and saw a sign offering French lessons. I called the number to practice my French. The woman was so sweet; she sounded like she wanted to be lifelong friends. She got stuck in Lawrence because her son's going to law school at Kansas University. She fumed about how ugly and empty the town was. "All the streets are completely straight! There is nothing here. Nothing!"
Looking around, it's hard to argue with her. The locals say it's a shame I wasn't here for tornado season, because then there would have been something to see.
This is not to say there aren't interesting Kansans. Wait till you meet Lisa.
This morning, 10:30, in Coffeyville (note the spelling: there is no real coffee in this town), Kansas, I went to the all-you-can-eat 3.99 buffet at the Great Wall Chinese restaurant. The manager chose the name Steve when he came here from Fujian province. He drew me a picture of a boat going up a river through the mountains of his homeland. Coffeyville is like any other town in this country, one main strip with signs leaning in on you from every angle. The landmarks are signs. ("Where's the public library?" "Behind the Long John Silver's.") I asked Steve if he missed Fujian, but he didn't get the word "missed" and I couldn't define it in simple terms.
In the Wu Yi mountains of Fujian there is a tea that sells at auction for over $2,000 a pound. There are only six trees that grow the leaves. Each tree is insured for $20 million. The trees are 500 years old. Only kings used to enjoy the tea, Steve said.
Yesterday in Lawrence, I stopped at the public library and saw a sign offering French lessons. I called the number to practice my French. The woman was so sweet; she sounded like she wanted to be lifelong friends. She got stuck in Lawrence because her son's going to law school at Kansas University. She fumed about how ugly and empty the town was. "All the streets are completely straight! There is nothing here. Nothing!"
Looking around, it's hard to argue with her. The locals say it's a shame I wasn't here for tornado season, because then there would have been something to see.
This is not to say there aren't interesting Kansans. Wait till you meet Lisa.
posted by Thon at 10:59 AM
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